Una Kushe (hello to everyone!), I am actually back in the US now, as this trip to Sierra Leone left me much more isolated from computers or even electricity for that matter. But, that isn’t always a bad thing, as it seems to generate more adventure and discovery (at least for me). This includes, but is not limited to, bullet (aka army) ants that flow like rivers(see photo to left, the dark line is entirely made of ants), crossing “monkey” bridges made by secret societies out of vines over scary rivers (photo below), death threats from 5 year olds, the sobering accounts of rebel attacks coupled with the triumphant leadership and joyful attitude that the friends I met last time greeted me with.
I would describe the overall difference between this trip and the January trip as much more intense (also wet as it was the rainy season). But in a good way, we accomplished a great deal, I was able to build on earlier knowledge and was granted trust on a deeper level. I think the highlight for me was interviewing 48 women, on camera, with the help of Margaret Koroma (who speaks 6 languages) on very intimate and sensitive topics regarding women’s rights, gender violence, equal education, child mortality and what they unanimously wanted, an education for all (meaning boys and girls) of their children. A true challenge in an impoverished nation with no free school system.But, I will start at the beginning; I’ve done a blog this time, so I am only going to send out this email and a final email when the blog entries are finished. I estimate that it will be updated daily. I think this will work better as I can put the photos up too, and anyone new to the distribution list can check out the entries, photos and (new!) videos from the last trip (I know, this stuff is riveting, yes, that was meant as a joke).
As I did last time, the flight to Freetown, Sierra Leone was paid for with frequent flyer miles, meaning that I was at the mercy of Delta and their merry band of code-share partners. My flight to West Africa took 3 days and went something like this, San Francisco to Paris to Cairo (with a stopover in Khartoum, more on this in a sec) to Nairobi (stopover in Accra) to Freetown. Fun times.
A word to anyone traveling abroad right now, every airport in the world is good and freaked out about Swine Flu. But never fear, they are protecting us all from danger by making passengers fill out a card basically declaring if we have it or not. Super reassuring. It should be noted that the very expensive Yellow Fever card full of proof of how inoculated I am against exotic disease was checked for the first time ever upon entry into Sierra Leone (but no where else on this journey or in the 30+ countries I’ve passed through…ever).
Other than being really tiring, the flights were not much of a hassle, until I got to Egypt. I happen to arrive before midnight and depart after midnight on the very day that daylight savings changes (the reason will come in the next entry). Everyone was confused as to when the plane was actually leaving, what time it really was, etc. So I just park at the gate and wait…for hours.
While waiting and reading some nice infidel reading material (not to worry, I was very modestly dressed and had an emergency scarf, that I did actually use to cover my hair at one point when I found myself the only westerner in a lounge where everyone was praying) I realized that the flight was stopping in Khartoum. Khartoum, the capital of Sudan, the country where Darfur needs saving. I wasn’t even aware commercial airplanes were allowed to land there, and I certainly DO NOT want to ride on one!
Then I start to consider my company at the gate. People are going to Khartoum for two reasons, Aid or Profit, i.e., Good Guys or Bad Guys. And the Good Guys usually land in the Darfur section on UN planes. I hear a couple of guys (yes, I am the only woman on this plane) speaking English and ask them where they are going, “Khartoum.” I reply with something utterly stupid like, is it warm (no, the desert in August is freezing). Then ask them what kind of business they are in, “oil.” Yikes. No more small talk for me. Unfortunately, I was too tired to stay awake and see what I could out the window of Sudan at night, but I will get a better look on the way back.
When I finally get to Lungi airport in Sierra Leone, I am exhausted and anxious. I had been assured at the last minute that Farah (yes, the same Farrah from last time) would be there to meet me, but as I cleared customs with nothing more than a smile, I didn’t see him. Panic began to set in because I knew that it was a 30 min walk to the behemoth ferry that makes the 2 hour trip across the bay to Freetown and then it’s another 1 hour with traffic on one lane tiny roads to my hotel, a hotel that I cannot explain directions to unless the driver is very savvy and very not in the mood to rip me off. Basically, I am in huge trouble unless Farah shows…
I de go now,
Mari
(that is my African name, way easier to say helps me make friends as it’s a really common name)
aka Maureen
P.S. For everyone new to the list wondering why I am bothering you with travel stories from the poorest country in the world…I work with a great group of people, Sierra Leone Village Partnerships (SLVP). Our goal is to help remote villages help themselves. Sierra Leone is the country that was devastated by the 11 year rebel war (think Blood Diamond, that’s the country) and they are still living in burnt out houses, have no schools, hospitals, clean water, I could go on…We are making this visit to finish up our second school, discuss some pending projects and meet with other NGOs.
If you would like to learn more about Sierra Leone, SLVP or how you can help out, there is a lot you can do:
1. Visit our site to donate directly http://www.slvp.org/.
2. When you shop online, always start at http://www.goodshop.com/ and type in our organization, Sierra Leone Village Partnerships, you'll know you've got the right group, when you see (Tampa, FL). Every time you buy something after linking through that page, the retailer (and they are biggies, like Amazon, Gap, The North Face, Nike, iTunes and Target to name a few) makes donations to little old us.
3. If you'd like to learn more about Sierra Leone, pick up the book, “Black Man's Grave” at Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Mans-Grave-Letters-Sierra/dp/0979080827/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1231022307&sr=8-1Itwas co-written by our EVP, a returned Peace Corps Volunteer, and my traveling buddy, John Amman. 50% of the proceeds go to fund SLVP projects.
4. Spread the word, forward my email/blog, tell people about SLVP and Sierra Leone.
5. To everyone in the Bay Area, or anyone who has some vacation time, our Holiday Fundraiser is going to be on Saturday, November 7th at 8pm. We will have West African food, music, trivia & prizes and of course a silent auction to help you get a jump on holiday shopping and raise funds for SLVP. I hope you can join us, look for the evite in a few weeks.
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